07/07 & 08/07: Okavango Delta (Botswana)

Thursday morning on Hanne’s birthday we left around 8h with a big 4×4 to the Okavango River Lodge where a motorboat was waiting for us to bring us to the boat point from where all the mokoros leave. Around 9h we stepped in our mokoros. It was us and a married couple from the United Kingdom, Nick and Aisha. Because me and Nick were heavier than the girls we had to take a bit of a stronger mokoro, but that was fine as we were going to the same island.

The Okavango Delta is very beautiful, just the water and the reeds alone, and also the wildlife around the delta. It’s just amazing travelling by a mokoro because it is so quiet and peaceful. The only thing you hear is the water, birds and the hippos making noise. Your main focus here is purely nature. As the delta is full of hippos that can attack a mokoro, they only go through shallow water and through the reeds. After 30 minutes you’re just completely covered in dust, insect and spiders. On our way to the campsite we saw a big hippo sleeping in the sun where we were able to get out of the mokoro to have a really close view of the hippo.
The delta contains thousands of small islands and our polers just picked out a random island where none of the other polers were going to. They didn’t want to go an island where mokoro groups were going as the wildlife tends to hide when there’s too much people/noise. It’s really like camping on a deserted island. The guides started a fire and dug a hole which we could use as a toilet while we pitched up our tents and at some lunch. Around 16h30 we left for a nice game walk. We didn’t see much because there were lions nearby and the animals move away from the lions. But we saw something very rare, a Pangolin, which is some kind of ant eater. Our guide was so impressed and told us this was the best thing we could ever see. It even brings luck! Later on we even heard that we are the first tourist group in Botswana that ever saw a Pangolin. If that isn’t something!

In the evening we sat by the campfire, sang for Hanne’s birthday and grilled some tender meat. A few drinks later we went to bed as it was getting quite cold. During the night you could hear the lions and the hyenas howl. We had to keep the fire going the whole night because this keeps the animals away.
The next morning we left for a big game walk on the island. We tried to track the lions as there were footprints all over the island. Unfortunately we couldn’t find them but the track itself was very nice. We do saw a huge herd of zebras running away and make some kind of strange noise which according to our brilliant guide means that one of them was killed by lions. So they were very nearby.

In the afternoon we packed our stuff and left for a 3 hour mokoro trip back to the boat point. We saw a herd of elephants where we were able to get very close by on foot. This mokoro trip truly was one of the highlights of our trip and a nice birthday present for Hanne!

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06/07:Maun, Okavango Delta (Botswana)

After a relaxing morning bath we left Nata and headed to Maun, a bigger city in central Botswana at the tip of the Okavango Delta. We arrived already around 1h at the Old Bridge Backpackers. We pitched up our tent and headed towards the town to do some shopping. Maun is quite big with some nicely stocked supermarkets. The bigger South African franchises seem to be present here as well.

In the later afternoon we packed our bag for our 2-day mokoro trip that starts tomorrow morning. A mokoro is a traditional dugout canoe. It’s going be just the two of us together with the poler who will be navigating and moving the canoe. At nigh we will camp somewhere on the delta and make a nice campfire. It will be a nice birthday for Hanne.

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05/07: Nata (Botswana)

After a good night rest we headed towards Kazungula, the border between Zimbabwe, Botswana, Zambia and Namibia. We crossed the border to Botswana, which went extremely fast. After only 30min we were already in Botswana. It was just a bit strange that we had to disinfect our shoes and drive through some kind of disinfecting liquid to avoid the Mouth and Claw disease in Botswana. After only 15 minutes driving we saw a huge amount of baboons next to the ‘highway’. A bit later we even saw elephants a bit further away from the road. Here wildlife is also present outside the game reserves. It feels very ‘Africa’. A bit later some road works started. They created a temporary road for 135 km to be exact which is full of potholes. It was terrible!

Around 14h we arrived at Nata Lodge where we were supposed to camp. At the last minute we decided to book a chalet as we still have to camp the next 3 nights. The chalet is amazing, very big, bathtub in the middle of the room, outside shower, simply pure luxury.

Nata is the place to visit the Makgadikgadi Pans, an extremely huge salt pan. If you look at the whole network of dry lakes, than the Makgadikgadi Pans are the biggest in the world. Even though we did not plan to visit them we were able to book a 3 hour tour for only 15 euros. This is the salt pan that the people from Top Gear crossed a few years ago. It is very beautiful and now there’s even some water in the pan. There’s a lot of animal species living around the pan. We saw flamingos, pelicans, ostriches, blue wildebeests, springboks, etc.

Tomorrow we will go to Maun, were we are going to do a boat trip on the Okavango Delta to celebrate Hanne’s birthday (7 July!). Maun is ‘only’ a 4 hour drive, so we can sleep a bit longer tomorrow.

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04/07: The Vivo is still alive! (Zimbabwe)

Because we haven’t done much today besides lying next to the swimming pool and buying petrol for the trip tomorrow, it’s maybe time to report that we’ve driven around 3900 km now. The road until now was quite good with fewer potholes than expected. Our car, a VW Polo Vivo 1.6 is doing great so far.

In Mozambique there was only a 50km stretch above Vilanculos with quite some potholes, but nothing I had not seen before somewhere in South Africa. In Zimbabwe between the border at Mutare and the Victoria Falls where we are now I have seen maybe only 10 potholes. We saw quite some South Africans with their big 4×4’s, but that’s only necessary if you go deep into the national parks, as those roads are rather terrible. So Mozambique and Zimbabwe can easily be visited with a normal car!

We still have to drive around 6000km, so we’re not in the middle yet. We heard from other travellers that the road we have to do tomorrow between the Kazungula border and Nata is full of potholes. The nice part is that people saw elephants and rhinos next to the ‘highway’.
Now it’s possible that we won’t have internet for a few days.

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03/07: Victoria Falls (Zimbabwe)

The previous night we woke up several times because of the cold nights in Zimbabwe. Luckily we’re staying in a tent with normal beds, so we at least have the comfort of sleeping in a bed.

In the morning we left early to visit the Victoria Falls. The entrance fee is quite high ($30 a person), so as all the entrances fees in Zimbabwe. We first saw the statue of Livingstone and then walked along the falls. The water levels are at its highest, so the falls are really amazing to see. All you can hear is water flowing at insane speeds, combined with awesome views and plenty of rainbows. The walk along the falls is very nice but after a few hundred metres you have to start wearing raincoats as you get really wet when just walking there. It’s terrible to take pictures as you camera gets wet so easily. But we were able to take some very nice photographs of the falls. After only 2 hours we completed the tour and went for another one till the middle of the walkway.

After that we headed back to the rest camp and went for a walk through the town and the open air craft market where we bought some small curios. It’s really annoying that there are so many people next to the roads trying to push you into buying some stupid curios or asking for old t-shirts. They just can’t leave you alone.
Tomorrow we’ll just relax a bit in the rest camp and we might even have a swim in the swimming pool.

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02/07: On our way to the Victoria Falls (Zimbabwe)

This morning we left Matobo National Park early. We again drove through Bulawayo. We needed petrol but it wasn’t easy to find. In Zimbabwe petrol is not always available. We drove past a lot of petrol stations that didn’t have petrol but we were lucky to find one with petrol.

Before we began our trip to the Victoria Falls, we visited SOS Children’s Village in Bulawayo. These villages are situated all over the world and provide care and education for orphans or children that are taken away from parents who are not capable of taking care of them. It was a very nice village and the children were lovely.

After that we headed towards the Victoria Falls. On our way there were a lot of animals crossing the road; cows, goats, donkeys, monkeys, sheep and pigs. So we had to stop several times.

Around 15h we arrived at our rest camp at the big falls. We immediately noticed that it is very touristic here. The people on the street kept on asking us to buy things from them and tried to book activities for us. It was a bit annoying. It is not the Zimbabwe we are used to for the past few days.

We booked a tent with beds in the Victoria Falls Rest Camp. It is a very nice tent with even light in. It was the same price as camping with your own tent so we didn’t bother to put up our own tent. Now we can sleep in a bed and have a lot of space in the tent.

After putting our stuff in the tent, we walked around a bit in the town and did some shopping at Spar. In the evening we ate dinner in the restaurant in the rest camp.

Tomorrow we will go to the Victoria Falls. We cannot wait to see them! From here we can even here the falls. Very exciting!

Good night!

 

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30/06 & 01/07: Matobo National Park (Zimbabwe)

On our way to our new destination: The Matobo National Park, where we were going to stay in a chalet at Maleme Dam, we stopped in Bulawayo to do some groceries and of course to get some meat for a braai. After all the fish in Mozambique it’s now time to eat meat again.

After we paid the entrance fee to Matobo National Park, we drove straight to Maleme Dam because it was already around 15h. At the reception they tried to push us into paying $75 more to get an en-suite lodge. But we already paid $70 for a chalet for 2 days, so we kept our booking. The chalets looked all right but very old and neglected. But the communal bathrooms were under ‘renovation’, the doors would not even open and the toilets were thorn into pieces. Really terrible! So we went to complain and after a while they gave us the keys to what they call a ‘lodge’. But it’s a stinky little hole if you ask me. It’s all very old and neglected. It was one of the best accommodations in Zimbabwe before all the political problems. It probably stood empty and was taken over by baboons (it’s full of baboons and vervet monkeys) for a few years.

The second day we did a drive through the park, but most of the sand roads and loops are in a very bad condition which made it quite a battle with our sedan. We saw some hippo’s in the game park. We also went to see the grave of the famous Cecil Rhodes who is buried at a very nice spot in the Matopos (stacked rocks), also called ‘World’s View’. We also visited some very well-known rock paintings by the San people. This was truly very nice to see what the people back then already could paint, and the fact that it is still visible.

Around 17h we went again to ‘World’s View’ to experience a magnificent sun downer. Very beautiful! After that we went back to our ‘lodge’ where the baboons and vervet monkeys were waiting for us. We made some food and relaxed at our campfire. Again an amazing day in Southern Africa!

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29/06: Great Zimbabwe (Zimbabwe)

We had no idea on how busy the Zimbabwean border was at Mutare, so we left around 7h30. Arriving at the border, we noticed that it was quite calm. Leaving Mozambique and handing in the ‘Temporary Vehicle Input’, was extremely easy and nobody even checked it correctly. At the gate to go to the Zimbabwean side of the border, the police checked our car and asked me this very nice question: “Don’t you have some money for us?”? After giving them some Meticals, which we could not use anymore anyway, we moved on to the Zimbabwean border. Getting a visa and exporting the car was again quite easy and quick. We then just drove into Zimbabwe until some police officers stopped us at the 2nd border checkpoint. According to them the rental car affidavit to cross the border was not official. After talking to them for about 30 minutes, they let us go on anyway. Finally in Zimbabwe!

After only 15 minutes there already was a roadblock. They were moaning about the compulsory reflectors that have to be on every car in Zimbabwe. Luckily Sydney from Belgium Campus gave me some. So thank you very much Sydney! We soon realised that every 30 minutes there is a roadblock. Some ask for the papers, some just want to have a chat, etc. One of them asked me “What did you bring for the people of Zimbabwe”. So I just gave him a beer we had left from Mozambique.
The people in Zimbabwe are all extremely friendly. The landscape is also very beautiful. Lots of huge granite rocks, baobabs next to the roads, etc. Very different compared to Mozambique.

Around 14h30 we arrived at our stop, the ruins of the Great Zimbabwe.
“The greatest medieval city in sub-Saharan Africa provides evidence that ancient Africa reached a level of civilisation not suspected by earlier scholars. As a religious and political capital, this city of 10,000 to 20,000 dominated a realm that stretched across eastern Zimbabwe and into modern-day Botswana, Mozambique and South Africa. “
We pitched up our tent and went for a guided tour around the ruins. This was very nice and interesting.

After the tour we had a braai, accompanied by a big camp fire after which we went to bed. But we didn’t really sleep much, as it was not just cold, but terribly cold that night!

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28/06: Chimoio (Mozambique)

We left early at ‘Beach Village’ to go to Chimoio, a small city in Central Mozambique, close to the Zimbabwean border. On our way to Chimoio we were pulled over by the police for the very first time. They checked all our documents, and after a few minutes we could already leave as everything was fine.

In Chimoio we are going to spend the night in the Pink Papaya, a backpacker owned by a German couple. We booked a double room, but because of a mistake they let another couple into that room. We are now going to sleep in the second double room, in an old caravan that is standing in the yard. On our way to Chimoio we noticed that there was a Shoprite, so we went to have a look in the afternoon. And yes!, finally we found some nicely packed meat. So tonight we’ll have our first and last braai in Mozambique.

In the afternoon we relaxed a bit in the lounge of the Pink Papaya where we saw the neighbour’s children playing in their yard and chasing a chicken. So we took some pictures of that of course. We also met some nice people from Israel who were also traveling through Africa. And in our backpacker was also a guy from Belgium, Erik. We had a nice braai together.Tomorrow morning we’ll go to Zimbabwe. Let’s hope we get through the border.

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27/06: Vilanculos (Mozambique)

Today was a relaxing day.

We woke up early as the sunlight came into our room around 6h30. We went for a walk in Vilanculos. We went to local markets. It was very nice. When we walked back we passed a little shop where children were selling fruit. We bought some oranges and the children were smiling because they sold something.

When we got back in the “Beach Village” we relaxed on the beach, took some nice pictures of the amazing views, went for a swim in the swimming pool and had a drink in the bar.

While we were relaxing on the beach a snake (a black mamba – a very dangerous snake) showed up behind us in the plants on the beach. The people of the “Beach Village” were very scared. They put petrol on the snake and burned the snake.

There were also some children coming to us on the beach. They looked very poor as their clothes were full of holes. We took some pictures with these children. We gave them some fruit, a cool drink and a bit of money. The children were very happy.

We also did some packing because tomorrow morning we will leave early to Chimoio.

Categories: Complete trip, Mozambique | 2 Comments